Sibo – Worth a detour: Brilliant food, well-paired wines, enhanced by matchless vistas
What’s more thrilling for a foodie than chancing on a remarkable chef in your backyard – replete with stunning ocean vistas and hosted by a charming maitre’d/ sommelier. That the chef commands classic (yet eclectic) French cuisine and a full menu, yet works virtually alone, is truly exceptional. That...
Read MoreSibo – Worth a detour: Brilliant food, well-paired wines, enhanced by matchless vistas
What’s more thrilling for a foodie than chancing on a remarkable chef in your backyard – replete with stunning ocean vistas and hosted by a charming maitre’d/ sommelier. That the chef commands classic (yet eclectic) French cuisine and a full menu, yet works virtually alone, is truly exceptional. That the highly-regarded Elk Cove Inn joined three years ago with the duo of chef Victor Passalacqua and wine-savvy Melissa Boon speaks to the vitality of the North Coast food culture.
Our experience was so positive we returned within the week (30 minutes away) to confirm the delightful find – and the second time more than matched the first. My discerning ex-caterer wife and I have not tasted its equal – integrating balance, elegance, and mastery – since indulging in Paris a few years back. Happy remembrance of things past, indeed.
First up, the onion soup startled our taste buds, marvelously blending caramelized onions, beef broth, and two cheeses. The zesty, lighter (than most) clam chowder marries French finesse with New England heartiness. Then we shared luscious, tender escargots (from Burgundy, no surprise), bathed in a well-seasoned garlic/lemon oil that invites avid bread dipping. The silky smooth, home-made country pâté (with fig jam) melted on the tongue– reminiscent of top French parallels. A delicate, beet salad sandwiches creamy, home-grown, walnut-graced goat cheese.
And the entrees. Over two meals, we enjoyed the rich, pungent, apple-brandy/wine sauce coating the pork loin, a spirited vegetable curry, marinated mussels delicately sauced not to overwhelm the seafood, and a perfectly-cooked salmon filet with a scrumptious champagne sauce (butter, shallots, chives, tarragon). We anticipate enjoying the other fish dishes and locally-grown rabbit.
For dessert, the creamy mousse was classic – light, smooth, just enough chocolate, and the lemon cake floated chunks of pastry with a just sweet-enough lemony curd. Melissa knows the food cold (pitching in on dessert) and she wonderfully matched our food choices (with a non-jammy zinfandel we didn’t know); we agreed about not pairing overly-forward California wines with Victor's elegant sauces. Servings are generous and Sibo offers a terrific French champagne opener (sorry, California), so fine it livens the salmon sauce.
Prices when compared to top, less impressive Mendocino (certainly Napa or Sonoma) eateries are quite moderate, and service is superb, in part because diners finalize menu choices by noon (how one chef manages his extensive menu). The website captures the dining room’s breathtaking ocean views.
After years tasting celebrated restaurants in Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties (and beyond), Sibo stands among our best, most pleasurable experiences, blending the warmest welcome with amazing food. Fortunately, Victor and Melissa love running the Elk Cove Inn so the future is bright for demanding foodies who visit Elk (on Hwy. 1, closer to Hwy. 101, Cloverdale, than is the town of Mendocino).
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