Earlier this year, I discovered how much tortillas matter in a taco when I had a "Carnitas Taco" here at Sabor. I was taking my daughter to the nearby Chuck E. Cheese when I realized that I had never eaten a taco in the town...
Read MoreEarlier this year, I discovered how much tortillas matter in a taco when I had a "Carnitas Taco" here at Sabor. I was taking my daughter to the nearby Chuck E. Cheese when I realized that I had never eaten a taco in the town of Lemon Grove before, and that this needed to be rectified. Yelp showed Sabor as the highest-rated taqueria in Lemon Grove, but the reviews were mixed among my Yelp friends. I decided to take a chance, and I'm glad I did.
The carnitas in their "Carnitas Taco" were alright. The pieces of pork somewhat resembled the appearance of chopped ham. The meat was flavorful enough and well-seasoned that I went with it, even if I was confused as to what part of the pig I was actually eating. The guacamole was decent and applied with restraint, thankfully. What made this taco special was its magnificent corn tortilla, obviously made on-premises using white masa, with a soft, thick texture and a taste of fresh corn.
Initially, the restaurant was tight-lipped when I probed them about their tortillas, but as I found myself returning for more tacos and other menu items, I got more information. What I can tell you is that Sabor procures their masa from a local supplier in El Cajon that nixtamalizes their own corn in-house, and they believe the key mistake common among tortilla-makers, even professionals, is not using enough water with their masa, resulting in many tortillas being too coarse and dry. And I would say they're right: more moisture results in a heavier, softer, smoother, and more palatable tortilla, as evidenced by the tortillas used with Sabor's tacos.
And, yes, let me be clear: you only get the good tortillas when you order TACOS here. Sabor uses bagged tortillas when served with their non-taco dishes. I suggest anyone who comes here to request their house-made tortillas instead. Better yet, have their fresh tortillas side-by-side with their bagged tortilla and you'll realize how profound of a difference a good corn tortilla makes over the mediocre bagged tortillas.
Sabor's other menu items have been a bit hit-or-miss, which is probably why their Yelp reviews are so mixed -- this is a place where you really need to know what to order. Thankfully, I plan on helping you with that.
The "Bistec Ranchero" is an excellent stew of steak in a spicy tomato sauce with thin strips of crisp onions. Definitely my favorite non-taco item here. The "Torta de Milanesa" is a filling sandwich, and was served on nice toasted bread, though some pieces of beef milanesa were a touch dry. I did not enjoy their "Carne Asada Taco" nearly as much as the Carnitas Taco due to the meat being bland and under-seasoned. Interestingly enough, their "Pollo Asado Plate" is fantastic. I shared it with my daughter, and this was some of the better renditions of pollo asado we've had in San Diego that did not come off my own grill -- the marinade, seasoning, and spices are excellent, and even though the browning is intense, the meat was juicy. Order this instead of the carne asada.
In summary, come to Sabor to experience well-made corn tortillas. Like me, keep coming back for the diversity of their value-oriented menu, of which I plan to continue to work through and appreciate over subsequent visits.
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