Ma Lupe's is the kind of Mexican restaurant that I want every other mom-and-pop Mexican restaurant in America to aspire to be. These days, I eye-roll at "authenticity" as a culinary concept, but I'm all for getting closer to the originally envisioned recipe without feeling...
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Ma Lupe's is the kind of Mexican restaurant that I want every other mom-and-pop Mexican restaurant in America to aspire to be. These days, I eye-roll at "authenticity" as a culinary concept, but I'm all for getting closer to the originally envisioned recipe without feeling as if someone wants me to nod my head and acknowledge it. Ma Lupe's just wants to serve me a good meal.
The quality of the food and service during my visit was indeed on the higher-end (despite the menu being affordable), beginning with an amuse bouche of "Filete Relleno de Mariscos," which consisted of a delicate filet of fish, grilled octopus, and shrimp, all wrapped in cheese. It was, by far, the best bite of food I've had in this desert region of Southern California, and I kicked myself for not knowing to order the full entrée. You, dear readers, now have no such excuse.
The "Mexicali Flauta" (a large taquito, essentially) was a miss. While I enjoyed its piquant red tomato sauce, it made the flauta soggy, undoing the frying. Also, the beef inside was difficult to taste. The "Gobernador Taco," on the other hand, was awesome. The crunchy corn tortilla is grilled until it blisters and the cheese has been melted into a salty, stretchy web that keeps the shrimp snugly inside. The chipotle cream sauce on the side is exceptional and should be used unsparingly. Additionally, the complimentary chips are served with a spicy salsa roja with heavy garlic and onion flavor that also could be applied to this taco.
Earlier this summer, I wrote about the "Special Quesadilla" invented at El Centro's Camacho's Place and how imitations have popped up at Mexican restaurants nearby. Its appearance at Ma Lupe's is a head-scratcher, because this restaurant's menu otherwise veers towards 100% Mexican dishes. I coyly interrogated my waitress (who was excellent, by the way) about the "Special Quesadilla," asking her if she's ever seen such a thing in her native Mexico, and she shook her head and laughed, "No way, this is American."
Ma Lupe's "Special Quesadilla" is heavy, rich, and crispy. Unlike at Camacho's Place, it is more of a meal here than an antojito. Also, whereas Camacho's Place's rendition is made in a dough similar to puff pastry, the cooked dough in Ma Lupe's version wants to crumble when pinched, almost like a pie crust. Regardless, both versions are good and unique to the Imperial Valley region.
Ma Lupe's is perhaps the restaurant I have most enjoyed dining at in Imperial Valley and a "must-stop" for me on future road-trips between San Diego and Arizona destinations.